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April
20th - April 26th, PARAGUAY!!!
The final leg started
typically. The wind shifted to a stiff frontal assault and the skies
closed above us. 80km into the wind and we crashed at a municipal sports
arena. We ate dinner as usual and set up the tent under a pavilion.
Lightening was blasting in the distance and rain smacked the thatched
roof. We crawled into the tent and fell asleep. We were awakened by
the mumblings of the night watchmen, who had not been around when we
laid down for the night. With unintelligible Spanish he drew us from
our slumbers to demand an explanation of our presence in his night domain.
He informed us that he ruled these poorly lit grounds and that he alone
would decide our fate. He was drunk and was unable to disguise his slurred
speech and sloppy behavior. "Call the cops, we have permission
to stay here. People in the municipality told us to stay here."
Appeased for the moment he wandered off into the night. Half an hour
later he returned to again proclaim his dominance of the soccer field
and small pavilions. Bueno, go get the cops we told him, but please
leave us alone. The cops showed up right after we had fallen asleep
and checked our passports. Old man grounds keeper drank off in the distance.
He had made his stand.
The next day we
prepared mentally for four more days of fighting the wind but the grasses
only swayed moderately. For three days we biked into a quarterly wind,
but made good time. The excitement was building. As we closed in on
Posadas the landscape became increasingly Paraguayan, especially as
we entered Missiones. The area we had entered all used to be forest.
You could tell from the way that humans lived in pockets of cleared
space surrounded by lush trees. The forest once covered everything,
A long last day took us over rolling hills and through a new kind of
humidity. We arrived at the base of the River Parana and sat, tired
and slightly bewildered, starring at the swollen river. Only a bridge
remained between us and Paraguay.
Getting a visa
to get back into Paraguay went smoothly. We showed up at the Paraguayan
Consulate and started speaking Guarani. We presented the trip and our
connection to Paraguay and they gave us a free tourist visa. Guarani
is an amazing language. It draws people together. It is a language of
emotion, storytelling and friendship, and allows you to show respect
for someone without formality.
The next day we
crossed the Parana and arrived in Encarnacion. The difference between
Argentina and Paraguay was immediately apparent. We were back in the
land of cold tereré and mango trees, of deep brown eyes and two
languages blended into one.
Thank you for being
part of this trip. For those of you who donated money, we thank you
from the bottom of our hearts. Your money is going directly to buy land.
As we arrived back in Paraguay we received the news that a large landowner
in the San Rafael reserve has agreed to sell 1000 hectares of high and
humid forest that is physically linked to the 140 hectares already owned
by GUYRA. If the 60,000 can be raised, the land will be bought and your
donations will be part of the buy. This is something to be proud of!
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