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General
Alvear to Rio Cuarto (April 6 -11)
The evening of
the 6th we left General Alvear and made it about 20 kilometers to a
small town called Bowen. There, we tried the "is there a place
we could camp?" trick again at the police station and it worked
splendidly. Alejandro, a local policeman, showed us to the community
sports center, gave us a place to set up the tent and let us take a
shower in the locker room. We slept out and planned on an early start
in the morning.
The morning, however,
had other plans for us. We awoke to cloudy skies, and as we drank mate
and prepared to leave, the clouds opened up and let us have it. Not
just rain, but marble-sized hail fell around us and we decided to retreat
to an Internet café and wait out the storm. After three hours
of mate drinking and email writing, we had had enough and set out into
the rain. As luck would have it, we happened to be going in the same
direction as the storm and followed it 93 kilometers through the pampa.
Pedaling through treeless areas in a lightening storm while sitting
on top of a piece of metal is not the most comfortable situation we
have been in. As we chased the storm east and the clearing skies tried
to catch us from the west, the rain stopped and we pulled into the small
town of Candelejas. There, we asked permission to camp in the local
health center's patio and made ourselves at home.
The next day we
awoke to clear skies and took off to the east on Ruta 188. Over the
course of the day we watched a drastic change in the geography and flora.
Starting in scrubby pampa we gradually worked our way into rolling grasslands
and partially forested landscapes. Dan had the good fortune of spotting
a piche (small armadillo) hunkered down on the side of the road. We
watched the piche from a meter away. It seemed a bit frightened and
not inclined to move so we decided to catch it and take a closer look.
The piche took off and we had a bit of a chase by the side of the road.
At last we caught the scrappy little guy and snapped a couple of pictures.
That afternoon
we made the road crossing where we would turn north and pulled into
the town of Nueva Galia to buy food for the next couple of days and
fill up on water. We then turned north and made a couple more kilometers
before pulling over in a forested section of cow pasture to enjoy the
last of the suns warmth. The northern stretch to the town of Justo Daract
was the most forested section of land we had seen since leaving the
Carretera Austral. Songbirds and waterfowl became more abundant as we
encountered more wetlands and forested areas. Taking advantage of the
wonderful weather, we continued into the evening and arrived at an estancia
to ask permission to sleep in the patio. Permission granted, we relaxed
and watched the gauchos ride out on horseback to bring in the cowherd
for the evening.
The next morning
we started off to the north towards Justo Daract. We had been contemplating
over the last few days which route to Paraguay would be best. We had
previously been thinking of going to the north of Cordoba in order to
avoid the traffic associated with more populated areas. However, after
asking people along the way about the best route, we changed our plans
and chose a more southerly route below Cordoba that cut directly to
the northeast and towards Paraguay. After eating lunch in Justo Daract
and treating ourselves to our first ice cream cones of the trip, we
pedaled out of town to the north and towards Rio Cuarto. We had been
told that the roads we would be traveling for the next couple of days
would hold more traffic, particularly with the Easter holidays approaching.
It turned out that the highways did indeed hold more traffic. We pedaled
hard, being constantly passed by semis and rushed travelers. Luckily,
the highway had a broken asphalt lane next to it and we were able to
pedal on it for the majority of the way. We arrived in Rio Cuarto on
the morning of 11th.
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